Chinnar Diary

Here I am reproducing some discontinuous scribbles from my diary in its original form and essence about trips to my favourite hide-out, the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Please bear with me!

04.12.03 Chinnar
To the field again! After a gap of more than a month, I am in Chinnar again. It feels so nice. Nowadays the forest looks greener, neat and clean. It shows the effect of the North-east rains (Monsoon) even though Forester Mr. Madhavan was telling me, barring two occasions of heavy downpour, this year's monsoon was pretty bad. May be! He ought to know better than me about Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary and its rains!

The trip up from Udumalpet was also inspiring. I had called up DFO James Zacharias'* office from Udumalai but he was out in the field. Left off from there at 3.30 pm and was winding up through the narrow, tarred grey road to Chinnar with lush greenery all around. That greenery had the neatness and cleanliness which only a much awaited rain can bring. Last time when I was in Chinnar, it was the last week of October, the forests around had a tired brownish look with most of the lesser vegetation turning dry under the scorching sun. It is not such a soothing scenario to withhold. But Chinnar is always beautiful because of the presence of the two ever-flowing rivers, the main one being River Chinnar. It separates the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala and also marks the boundary between the Indira Gandhi National Park and Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary; a natural, god-made barrier between the rain-starved Tamil Nadu and the 'prodigal' Kerala. It quenches the thirst of both the people, although I am not sure whether the thirst of Keralites could ever be quenched!

Almost at the start of the trip itself, after the check post of IGNP*, I saw a Wild Boar standing frozen about ten meters away from the road on the left side. He was not moving a bit, might have been terrified by the sound of the bus. What to talk of him, I was also getting mad by the noise generated by the stereo and put out through the tweeters just above my head. I had to tell the driver to reduce the volume a little. I will bet he was not too pleased with me, for he turned off the tweeter above me instead of reducing the volume. And then the accusing look and question: "Enough?!" I didn't care much about that and gave him a blank smile. Ok, the Boar we were talking about was not large but of a medium size, rather he looked very lean for a wild boar. What he was through, god and himself only know!

Now, as the headache manufacturing machine was not annoying me, and I could concentrate more on the scenery in front and around me. Before going far, we saw three Peafowls right on the middle of the road .......

Chinnar 31.12.03
Coming to Chinnar is never boring. It has lot many faces to show you. If you are bored with one, it will show you another. I had expected some more obstacles in my path as I was preparing to leave SACON*. Anything can happen, she (Senior Finance Officer) may not come, or will ask for some correction or other and so on. But thankfully, nothing of the sort. It was almost going the same route when she said: "Director will come tomorrow and he will sign the utilization certificate!" But I somehow managed to convince her that her hand will do. Got it, moved on! It had to be posted though, and I went in search of a speed post counter to City Tower in Gandhipuram. Ok.. done, and off to Ukkadam I go!

Had lunch from Hotel Sindhuri. It was okeyish. Then I saw that signboard: 'Old book Stalls.' It could be book stalls which are very old or book stalls which sell old books. Only Kovai corporation fellows know what they meant. But anyways, it was fine with me. Went there and asked for Wildlife Biology books. Most of them looked at me like hearing the word "Wildlife" for the first time in their lives. They knew only two words: "Computer" and "Management", and these two were enough for them to sell their wares.

Udumalai bus left Ukkadam exactly at 2 pm and reached the destination at 3.40. Spotted a Munnar bus but it was leaving only at 4.30 pm. Had a tea, bought Outlook magazine and then ...the pick of the day! One middle-aged fellow suddenly called me and asked in free-flowing Victorian English: "You are the son of Tata Tea manager, isn't it?!" He was clad in rags, to say literally, and except for his smiling face was never impressive. He started a conversation on his own, and started telling me his story. I understood him inside out then and there, but I had no escape route. When he came to the actual point, money or just before he was on the verge of asking financial help, I told him that I was in a hurry and had to make a phone call. But he was not to leave me, and I had to show him my black, ugly face to get rid of him.

I had called up Balu* and Joya* en-route. Balu was enjoying the Goan beaches. Joya was also enjoying life, but with her younger cousins, at her home. She told me very casually that she had just finished reading my story and there is a reply on air! What a girl!!

Reached Chinnar at 5.30. Jijo* was there and the Forester had changed. The new fellow, Mr. Venugopal looked a better guy. Jijo told me that they had a New Year party arranged, with non-veg and booze. Ok, let it be! I will have കപ്പ പുഴുക്ക് (boiled tapioca) and enjoy it which was what exactly I did. Jijo was participating in the proceedings whole-heartedly, having peg after peg. Later, some of them went to Karimutty. I came back to my room and was reading till 12.00 when Jijo knocked at the door and wished me Happy New Year 2004.

James Zacharias: The then Wildlife Warden of Chinnar WLS.
SACON: Salim Ali Centre for Ornithology & Natural History, Anaikatty, Coimbatore.
IGNP: Indira Gandhi National Park.
Balu: Balakrishnan Peroth, from തുവ്വൂര്‍ (കരുവാരകുണ്ടിനടുത്ത്ത്) in Malappuram, Kerala is researcher at SACON.
Joya: Joya Thapa, from Kurseong, Darjeeling is researcher at CWS-Bangalore.
Jijo: Jijo Mathew Plappallil, Independent bird watcher living near Thattekkeadu Bird Sanctuary, then Nature Education Assistant at Chinnar WLS.

To be continued.

01.01.04
I did not feel like getting up early as I was exhausted and was feeling the tiredness of the last day. Anyways, Vijayan* was not going to come with me. Then Jijo told me there is a place called Thirumurtimalai where there is a reservoir and where we might get to watch a lot of wetland birds. He hadn't been there before, has just heard about the area. Hmm.. so, off to the place. Got a letter from the forester introducing us and left for Udumalaipet to meet the Range Officer who is in charge of Thirumurti. He was not there at the office or his house, instead met his family. They called him up on his mobile, and he said "Ok". We then went to an Internet browsing centre near the Bus stand and checked mails for about an hour. There were mails from a few fellows, mostly new year wishes. But Joya's reply was also there. She was like an expert acrobat. Let's not discuss all those things here.

Went to Thirumurti Dam, reached there at 3.30 pm. There was not much wetland birds. We saw lot of Yellow wagtails, some Paddy field Pipits, Marsh and Green Sandpipers, Large pied Wagtail, Red-wattled Lapwing, River Tern, Ringed Plover, Little Cormorant, Indian Shag, Little and Median Egrets, Pond Heron and a pair of unidentified ducks. Stork-billed Kingfisher (കാക്കമീന്കൊത്ത്തി) was also seen. While coming back, walked over the dam for almost two kilometres and enjoyed the scenery. Its really a nice place for relaxing and enjoying nature, but the rush is too much. While returning, we had to get a lift from a biker as buses were quite infrequent and fully loaded. Those buses which came by didn't stop as it was already packed to the roof. Mr. Dinesh, as the biker introduced himself, was actually from Palakkad but was now working at Udumalai. He dropped us at Pallapalayam from where we could get a bus to Chinnar.

We had tea and bought some snacks, and I was charging my mobile phone at the bakery when one bus went past. It was 7.30. The next bus was only at 8.15. I had just called up home, and there was nothing more to do than wait. And a long wait that was! At last, the old guy (the coughing and sneezing reminds me of an old fellow who is eager to die) came and we got in. Only a few passengers were there. I was watching the road eagerly when I noticed a Sambar (Cervus unicolor മ്ലാവ്) doe and her fawn moving away from the road side towards my right. The sight was fascinating. Indeed, watching any wild inhabitant is fascinating and refreshing to the mind. After this, sometime later, we saw a small rodent, probably a field mouse (Mus booduga) sitting on the right edge of the road feeding on something. It was sitting like in prayer, and somehow resembled a Gerbil. Later, two field mice crossed the road, one first towards right and another to the left. Small, insignificant might they look, they are so cute and lively who remind us of the vast treasure of life which lies beyond those dark edges of the road. Just keep your eyes and ears open: LIFE IS CALLING YOU!!

*Vijayan: One of the many tribal guides I have employed during my research at Chinnar. Vijayan is adept at finding animals before they find us. He belongs to the Hill Pulaya group and stays at Chambakkad tribal settlement inside Chinnar WLS.

To be continued.

02.01.04
Got up at 6.00 and told Jijo to close the door after me. Walked to Chambakkadu and on the way, saw a lot of birds. Vijayan was at home. We started off along the road. When we reached the place where we had seen langurs the last day, we heard 'boom' calls and looking down, saw some langurs sitting on top of trees on the southern bank of Pambar. Started downwards to Pambar riverside. Upon reaching there, we could see a very good number of langurs there. Since we were on the opposite bank, they were not afraid of us. There were about 30 in all. They were a bit shy but not afraid. Infants were engaged in play, some even on the ground. I could not attempt group scan since only three or four were visible at a time. Around 9.30 am, all of them came to the open area near the river bank. We could see some altercation among the adults. Some adult males were attacking other adults, probably females. Females carrying infants on their backs soon started retaliating as a group. It went on for 2 or 3 minutes only. Three or four females with infants came near the water's edge and started doing all sorts of things which monkeys are prone to do: resting, playing, feeding, grooming etc. They did not care my presence.

All of them moved to a large rocky area near the south bank after some time. I crossed the river and settled on a rock near water. Suddenly, a large Sambar stag with medium sized horns appeared in front of me from the bushes. It was oblivious of my presence and came nearer and nearer, almost five metres from me. And then, still unaware of my presence, it went on along the bank and disappeared from view. It was a real beauty, a very good start for my day!

Later at about 10.40 am, I heard some sounds nearby and noticed some bushes shaking vigorously. Then, the backside of the animal came to view. It was not a Sambar, cannot be a Gaur (കാട്ടുപോത്ത്) either since the back was broader. I didn't even suspect an elephant since I thought, no, I was sure that the small bush could never hide an elephant. Soon the doubt was cleared and I was proved wrong! Not one, but three elephants came out in to the open in front of me, only some twenty metres away. I won't call all of them elephants as only one female was a bit large enough to be called an elephant. Others were one young female calf of about four years and a boy of about two. The adult was also quite young to be a mother. Vijayan had not seen them till now, and he backed off calling out aloud when he saw. When the adult saw me inching forward towards them to take photographs, she came charging. But she was not sure of herself, I think, and she withdrew after the mock charge. They actually wanted to have a drink and obviously, I was blocking their path. So, after some five or ten minutes, they went away.

All the while, the langurs were around us. But now they were farther away at the foot of the hill. I observed them and took notes for some more time, but soon they disappeared. We went up the hill following the monkeys, and left them at around 2.30 pm. Our food was a major concern as we didn't have any breakfast or lunch other than two three pieces of bread.
We reached back at Chinnar at about 4 pm by which time Jijo had already left for home. As his business was over, he didn't find staying back longer a good option. But I didn't know he was going back today. I went up to the room and had a good nap till 7.30 pm. After dinner, had a walk up to the watch tower road and returned. On the way, saw one Wild Boar leaping out and running away from the bushes in front of the Inspection Bungalow.

...to be continued.


03.01.04
Started off to Champakkad at 6.20 by the KSRTC* bus. Vijayan was on his way to the bus stop. We met near the teashop, (or whatever you chose to call the rock where that guy sells tea) and we started our walk along the south bank of Pambar. This tea shop arrangement is for wayfarers who are coming from far away tribal settlements and going shopping to Marayur or Udumalpettai. Earlier there was one hotel selling break-fast also; all were open air affairs. The breakfast arrangement was recently closed down due to some problems with the people of Champakkad.

We reached the place where we saw langurs the last day. There.. some four or five langurs on the other side. Soon we found out that there were some langurs on our side of the river also. They were not so near, some 100 metres away from the bank atop some trees. After some time, we heard some boom calls from that part. We crossed the river and settled down near Nallamangathura thinking that the river between us and the langurs would provide them a kind of courage to them as was observed yesterday. However, the langurs on the southern side were not seen or heard again. Hence, at last, we decided to look for the monkeys on the northern part. Climbing up, I looked for them all around. Seeing me so curious about their whereabouts, they fled downstream through the trees.

Meanwhile, I noticed a Grizzled Giant Squirrel (ചാമ്പലന്നാന്‍) very close by. He was feeding on some tiny fruits and hadn't noticed me. I could go as near as three or four metres and photograph. But what use was the Yashica FX 3 kit lens (32-70mm)?! He looked more creamish rather than ashy grey as described. The little man soon took flight observing my huge presence. They have a habit of freezing (staying absolutely still) when pursued, but when they become sure that they are spotted, they will flee in a flash.

After some hide-and-seek with our langurs, we lost them completely. We could not trace them out even after a thorough search. Hmm, let's look for those on the other side! Where are all those langurs we saw yesterday?! Surely, it was a large troop. Climbed up the hill halfway and then came down. No trace! At that moment, as if to erase our despair, god gifted us the wonderful sight of two Lorikeets or Vernal hanging Parrots near their nest hole on a large tree inside the riparian forest patch. They were a fantastic sight indeed! It was my first look at a Lorikeet in the wild. I watched their movements for about ten minutes.

Since we couldn't find the langurs anywhere, we returned early and reached Chinnar by 1 pm. I was really tired, and after lunch, just went to room and while reading dozed off. I had seen langurs in front of the IB (Inspection Bungalow), and actually wanted to observe them for some time after the lunch.

At 2.30 or 3 pm, some body knocked on the door and I woke up. When I opened the door, a handsome young man was standing in front of me. He introduced himself as Mr. Kishen Das. I didn't get him at first. He looked friendly and behaved like an old friend but...?! Then it suddenly flashed in my mind: "oh, the natural history mail group fellow, butterfly wallah!" I had thought that Kishen Das was an old fellow. But this guy turned out to be a smart, young, energetic nature lover who was working as a Software Engineer in Global Exchange Systems of GE (General Electric) in Bangalore. He is from Mysore and had a friend with him, one Mr. Mohan Kumar, a young diploma holder in Electronics and currently Nature Education Co-ordinator of Mysore Amateur Naturalists (MAN), an NGO. Both were basically from Mysore. Mohan told me that he had met Mohan Nilambur* last week for the bird survey at KMTR*. Kishen is an active member of BNHS* and is presently on vacation, surveying butterfly migration routes. He wants to do a Ph.D. on Butterflies. He asked me about Ajith* Sir's M.Sc. course. Apparently, some body from CES* has given him false notions about that course. They wanted him to do a Ph.D. straight away at IISc (Indian Institute of Science, Bangalore). After a bit friendly talk, we went for a trek up to Koottar. Palanisamy came with us. Actually, they had met James Zacharias at Munnar but he asked them to bring permission letter from Chief Wildlife Warden. Perhaps, James didn't like Kishen Das' authoritative attitude. As it was, Kishen is a bit egoistic and thinks since he is connected with BNHS and all, nobody can stop him from entering forests in India or doing whatever he wants. He had a taste of what happens when two egos bombard. We talked a lot about nature and stuff.

On our trek to Koottar, we saw a new species of Cuckoo, the Grey bellied cuckoo. We also saw six Gaur on a hill slope. Reaching Koottar, we noticed one Mugger Crocodile basking on a rock. On hearing foot steps, he dived under water. While returning, one Black-naped Hare ran on the road in front of us for some distance.

They left Chinnar at 8 pm by bus to Udumalai. They had to return to Mysore today itself. Meanwhile, I met a forest guard at the Tamil Nadu side, who claimed that he had worked with Dr. Ajith during his Ph.D field work at Varagaliar, Valparai. He had heard me talking about Ajith to Kishen at the tea shop while we were waiting for the bus. Shanmugham couldn't stop talking about Ajith. Later on when I met Paulose,* he asked me not to take any body for trekking without prior sanction from the RO (Range officer) as he may not like it.

KSRTC: Kerala State Road Transport Corporation.
KMTR: Kalakkad-Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve, Tamil Nadu.
Mohan Nilambur: Then Photographer of Tourism India Magazine, Thiruvananthapuram. Now runs PUPA (Wildlife Photography, fim making, advertising, etc.) at Nilambur.
Ajith: Dr. Ajith Kumar, Principal Scientist in SACON at the time, currently Course Director,
M.Sc. Wildlife Biology & Conservation, Centre for Wildlife Studies, Bangalore.
BNHS: Bombay Natural History Society.
CES: Centre for Ecological Studies, IISc, Bangalore.
Paulose: Paulose C. Thomas was Forest guard at Chinnar, now at Periyar Tiger Reserve.

ROMEO: An Afterthought!

“When a man deceives me once, says the Italian proverb, it is his fault; when twice, it is mine.”

I should have known better. I had lost hope in Dileep long back, but I was not sure about Rajasenan. I should have known, atleast after watching Madhuchandralekha. What a wonderful film that was! It fetched Urvasi the State's Best Female Actor Award for 2006, since she is quite young (atleast at heart) as 'youthfulness' was the prime reason cited for the Award for Male Actor going to Prithviraj (hahaha...hohohoo). The chairman of the jury was not very sure whether it was Mammootty or some Tamil guy who acted in Karutha Pakshikal and anyway, the award is for people below 25 (We should promote young talents yaar...like Urvasi!)

Yaa, let's come back to the point: what we were talking about is...who is going to get which award for "Romeo". Keep guessing.

Romeo kept me guessing (I think the director too) about what way the story (if ever there was one!) is going. There are more than enough to tickle your funny bones and you keep laughing while exclaiming 'why I am laughing?!' After sometime, you get intoxicated with senseless humour and you could only sit there in exasperation. Rajasenan, your characters might be all idiots and lunatics, but don't count me with them! I am sure, there will be more guys who agree with me after watching Romeo.

To confess, I am an ardent fan of Salim Kumar, Suraj Venjaramood and Cochin Haneefa (more so of his body). And where was Mallika Sukumaran all these years?! I enjoyed their performance for most of the part. And that was it!

I presume Rajasenan- Rafi Mecartin team would have thought about "Dileep & Three Heroines" tag line first and the story second. Leave out Dileep and the three heroines only remain, of which that cute Agraharam baby (Sruthi Lakshmi) was a waste. Was not all of them?....no no, don't tell that about Vimala Raman! I adore her beauty and I curse the fate that "Romeo" was the first movie of hers I watched.

And I also curse the moment when, not getting tickets for "Katha Parayumbol" at the Radha theatre, we decided to watch Romeo. I curse the guy at Radha who had only one ticket to offer us, even if for Rs. 75/- instead of Rs. 35/-.

Lesson One: There are better ways to spend 35 Rupees. Buy a "Tom & Jerry" CD, for instance!

Happy Birthday to Jesus Christ!

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SADDAM - Silence Speak Louder Than Words

Long Live the War for Freedom...

Long Live the War for Democracy...

Long Live the War on Terrorism...

...and Long Live the Search for WMDs!!

Karutha Pakshikal..........birds without a sky!

...............what should I say!! Choking ...I feel some weight on my heart which I can't throw away, something pressing against my chest..that makes my lungs heavier!! Yesterday morning, one of my students told me about the movie..that its such a touching story.. and the camera is superb..and no words to talk about Mammootty's performance. He was in a festive mood after his project viva voce and I would have never expected him to talk about something so melancholic then. Thats what set me thinking.

I reached Kozhikode Kairali Theatre at 4.15 pm, the show was already on, but tickets were available. It hurt me actually, not that I was late..but it hurt me bad that the movie was not housefull! Then and there, I decided to give it a try at 7 pm. Even with all the negative effect of expectations, I should confess that the movie made me think and cry...really! More than the tears, it leaves a lingering feeling of uneasyness in your heart that refuses to go away, an uneasyness which you cannot fathom..you cannot express in words.

A simple story told in a touching and beautiful way, thats it. Students...go and learn from a master of the art! And the same advice twice to students of acting too..I actually never felt that Mammootty was there in the movie. Oh, you won't have an iota of doubt that its the same Murukan who comes to your colony every week to collect the rubbish in return for which he gives you plastic vessels and such. The emotions, the dialogues....nobody can match the performance. Especially when he narrates the fate of his wife to Suvarna...what should I say! I felt the same helplessness myself when the politician asked him about his identity. Feeling miserable and helpless was never so elegantly portrayed. You really deserve something for this, Mr. Mammootty!

You might have watched all her movies, but never saw a Meena like this one before. There is something in the character which sets it apart from her other roles. A character you are seeing on screen for the zillionth time, but isn't it so different?!! As Velu Nair, a fellow blogger pointed out, I was never a great fan of Meena, but this film made me stop and think.

And about Padmapriya and Malavika...better watch it! The Padma Priya you saw earlier was an elegant beauty, did you ever expect her to BEG...and that too in style?!! The child Malli, though blind by birth, is full of optimism and it oozes out through her eternal smile and spreads everywhere like the fragrance of the red flowers that she so dearly loves. "Kelabham tharaam..." made me laugh my heart out.

The background music has been so effortlessly woven in to the movie which makes you feel that you are among them and one of them, those Annaachees you earlier despised. And the songs are very good too, though not exceptional.

The thing which was exceptional was the camera; Sukumar, I should confess that I have never thought such angles exist...the first song was the pinnacle of your photography.

How many characters can you count in the movie...ten..or twelve? But how many you forget after the movie..NONE! Even the patient who waits in vain in the queue at the hospital has done his part well! Kudos to Kamal for such a heartwarming movie and kudos to Mammootty, Padmapriya, Jagathy, Meena, TG Ravi, Malavika, Salim Kumar, VK Sreeraman, Suvarna's husband, the Police Man, the Finance Agent, Karikkada Ayyappan chettan, Saramma police, Aashan, Seema G Nair, and all those whose names I don't know...and to the other two kids, Suhaila (Mayil) and Thejus (Azhagu)! Your performances were just unforgettable.

After Kaazhcha, I haven't seen a movie so powerful, but Kaazhcha had a slightly greater impact as I didn't have any expectations about that movie. Hence I resist the temptation to compare the two. Mammootty's performance, but, is far better than in Kaazhcha. Thanks Mr. Kamaludheen, for ending the story so elegantly! And thank you very much again for making me write this much. I really want to tell people about the movie. I know its working..the balcony was full for the show. But...I expected better reviews for this one, not the usual whimperings of the reviewers about the movie being "depressing and slow"! Is it your fault, my know-all reviewer?! I really don't know.

Appaaa.....

Aen kannae?!

Those voices still ring in my ear.

Riyan.

Over a hundred years ago, the great Indian Chief, Seattle, was faced with the loss of his tribe’s land. He responded out of his love and respect for the land with utter honesty, and heart breaking eloquence:

“We are part of the earth and it is part of us. The perfumed flowers are our sisters, the deer, the horse, the great eagle, these are our brothers. The rocky crests, the juices of the meadows, the body heat of the pony, and man all belongs to the same family.

So when the Great Chief in Washington sends word that he wishes to buy our land, he asks much of us. If we decided to accept, I will make one condition: the white man must treat the beasts of this land as his brothers. I am a savage and do not understand any other way. I have seen a thousand rotting buffaloes on the prairie, left by the white man who shot them from a passing train. I am a savage and I do not understand how the smoking iron horse can be more important than the buffalo that we kill only to stay alive.

Where is man without beasts? If the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts soon happens to the man. All things are connected, this we know. The earth does not belong to man, man belongs to the earth. This we know. All things are connected like the blood which unite one family. All things are connected. Whatever befalls the earth befalls the sons of the earth. Man did not weave the web of life; he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does it to himself.”

The Muthanga XP..!

Day before yesterday, at about 9.30 pm, my student Mr. Aarif called me up and said: "Sir, we are planning a trip to Muthanga tomorrow. We would like you to come with us. Dr. Hameed is also coming." Ok, I thought! Anyway, its vacations, and for some days I am free. Why not use it for such a journey which I always cherish?! Thus started the trip.

We started from Calicut in a transport bus at 7 in the morning. I was a bit apprehensive at the start. Its the height of summer and at a place like Muthanga in Wayanad the sun will be at its scorching high when we reach there. And you cannot be too sure of a trek! Better be optimistic, I thought. We reached at Muthanga (its a part of Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary) at about 12 noon. Now.. the entry to the Sanctuary is after 3 o' clock only. So we walked along the banks of the Noolpuzha river and got content with the sight of three Malabar giant squirrels (Ratufa indica) and several Southern-plains grey langurs (Semnopithecus dussumieri). The langurs have a creamy tint to the grey coat compared to their counterparts in the Anamalais (Tufted grey langur S. priam, best seen at Chinnar wildlife sanctuary) which are more slaty grey. The hair tuft on the top of the head is also smaller and flatter. We walked for six-seven kilometres along the road and in the process crossed over to Bandipur National Park in Karnataka. But even people could never notice the change, let alone animals. How are they to know its Karnataka or Kerala?! After the exit of Veerappan from the scene, both parts are the same for the wild denizens.

We had to get a vehicle for Rs. 250 and had to dish out 250 more towards entry fee, etc, etc. There were five of us: Me, Dr. Hameed (my colleague, a PhD in Wildlife Biology), our students Aarif, Rajan and Sayid. A tribal guide, Mr. Mohanan accompanied us in the jeep. On the short trip of 75 minutes, we could not stop thanking god that we took the pain! We stopped counting spotted deer (Axis axis) very soon and started neglecting the guys who grazed here and there, everywhere. But occassionally, by the sheer magnificence of its antlers, a stag or two invited our astonished gaze. They are a sight indeed, they are like some girls who know they are pretty and like to advertise it. Here and there a peafowl (Pavo cristatus) would trot away from the nearing vehicle or try to take to wings which it not so efficiently does. Soon after the start, we were welcomed to an elephant party by the continuous calls of a Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus). They were in a valley populated by marsh reeds and grasses called by the locals as vayal. There were eight of them, but no tusker. We could not venture nearer as the wind was blowing towards them from us and it will be suicidal to approach an elephant herd in such an open place such a way. Later, we came across a herd of 13 Gaur or Indian Bison (Bos gaurus) as they popularly called. Gaur is famous for its temper especially when calves are around. Hence we were content to watch from a distance as they moved slowly and deliberately away. At each turn in the dusty path in Muthanga, you will encounter scores of Cheetal with three or four majestic looking stags among them. More so, since the wildlife dept has dug up several ponds along the sides of the path where these animals congregate for an afternoon drink. The stags scout around here and there keeping the antler-clad head high as if they are task masters in a political procession.

The best moment of the trip was still waiting! I was hanging on the back of the jeep taking in the fresh air and scanning the forest for animals, when while going around a bend where two roads meet, I spotted some huge grey bodies to the right side of the diversion we were taking. We took the jeep in reverse towards them..and lo..there were some 14 elephants with very young calves grazing and mud bathing in a vast open area near a pond. A huge tusker was also feeding nearby. The wind this time was on our side and we could approach fairly nearer. Some 30 metres away he stood, lazily ignorant of the happenings around him, just concentrating on what he was doing. According to our guide, he had not witnessed such a magnificent spectacle in the near past, as the animals were positioned in such a beautiful landscape ready for a photograph. He was cursing himself that he forgot to take his camera. Our jeep driver kept the vehicle ready for any eventuality and was glancing continuously with a nervous eye towards the tusker. We had two cameras, mine a Nikon Coolpix 4500 which is no good for such moments. But we took as many shots of the herd as we can. I had several prior experiences with wild tuskers during my stint at SACON, Coimbatore and Chinnar and knew very well the ways of the wild and that of elephants. But my younger companions were not that experienced. Aarif got a bit more enthusiastic and was nearing the bad guy when he suddenly turned and looked menacingly towards us. He then slowly and deliberately took a stride towards the side. The path was in a semicircle and the jeep was positioned at the other end of it. It was easier for him to reach the jeep taking a diagonal path than for us..and be sure, that was what he intended to do. You have not seen how fast an elephant can run in the wild. It seems improbable to most of us novices that an elephant could attain that speed -let alone run -with that huge bulk, but you have to run to believe (only if you remain to finish the race)! Aarif was still engrossed in shooting pics, and it took some specific words from me to deter him. He was still looking confused as we hurried towards the vehicle. Probably he had not heard such words before. After safely seated in the jeep, we were more relieved to be away from the bull hearing that the tusker was in musth and he just days back had attacked and destroyed a Mahindra Scorpio which carried some tourists from Calicut. He was smart enough that we could see, but he seemed uninterested and not to care. After some initial stride forward, as he saw us retreating he remained stable and resumed his feeding. Why waste your energy on such lowly beings, he might have thought! Indeed fitting for the Lord of the Jungle!

After the feasting on elephants, we could not have asked for more. So we started our journey back. But we were greeted again by a cow elephant and her calf in a partly burnt bush. Her kin were not in view. Again we came across some peafowls and several deer and at 5.45 we came back to the entrance of the park. Our day was made!

Futile Struggle for Fertile Lives

Disgusting.........!!!

What else should I say about Indian polity or Indian society as a whole?! Our society unmasked its ugly face once more when a veteran actor died a most normal death last week. The Bangalore city is regarded as the best in India and the best face of India projected to the outside world. But what did happen there? The people who call themselves the fans of the revered actor erupted out in to the streets and burned and damaged whatever they can. They attacked every passing vehicle and life was disrupted in the state for more than 48 hours. It effectively isolated the city from the other India and thereby ensured that Rajkumar got the worsest funeral he could have hoped for. Instead of joining in the mourning, people might have actually cursed him and his fans. I am still unable to find an answer to the perturbing question: against what or whom were the so-called fans protesting?! Dr. Rajkumar lived 77 long years full of life and died the most peaceful death that one can hope for. Were they protesting the almighty who called him back?!

All through this was going on the high drama called 'Narmada Bachao or Doob Maro' in the Indian capital. The central characters were a large dam in central India and a frail, old lady called Medha. Guarding the villagers and tribals threatened by the dam, She tried vainly for several long years to stand up against the huge concrete monster. But she was against a stronger and crueller enemy than she had hoped for: the collective polity of four states who were to benefit from the scheme (the 'who' here is, as you correctly infer, not the states, but the politicians and bureaucrats). Finding it a hard to win battle, she backed off asking for just just compensation and rehabilitation for the oustees of the dam. It was not to be. She went to the supreme court which several consider as the champion of Individual freedom in India. What did the court say?! Increase the dam height how much you want and compensate the victims at your own pace. A famous writer actvist, Ms. Arundhati Roy had to bear the wrath of the court and had to suffer a symbolic one-day imprisonment in the infamous Tihar jail for her sarcastic comments against that verdict.

And after all these years of struggle, what did the oustees get? They rightfully deserved compensation running in to lakhs and atleast two hectares each of cultivable land for their cropfields swallowed by the rising waters of the Narmada. When they were denied all this and they saw no light at the end of the tunnel, what did they do? Did they burn down houses of the elite, or vehicles or damage public property. They turned to the most peaceful form of protest, that of Satyagraha or non-violent struggle propagated by that angel of peace known to the world as Mohandas Gandhi. Ms. Medha Patkar started fasting demanding the stoppage of construction at the Sardar Sarovar dam site until adequate compensation and rehabilitation was carried out by the authorities as required by the Supreme court verdict. She is in to the 19th day today taking in only liquids, that too forcefed by the hospital staff with instructions from the top. (You may contrast all this with the first mentioned incidents).

The Group of Ministers who visited the affected areas found the worst form of neglect of human dignity and widespread misappropriation of funds. Nobody was provided cultivable land, people were forced to accept cash as compensation and the check will be delivered only after you pay the bribe in full. And for each ten lakh you get as compensation, you should pay one lakh as tax. That's a nice idea, a new term for your vocabulary Mr. Chidambaram - "Compensation Tax or Rehabilitation Tax". You can also ask for an advance payment of this if one wants to be rehabilitated or compensated.

Then started a hue and cry over anti-development activism and emotional blackmail. Politicians from the four states (Gujarat, Maharashtra, MP and Rajasthan;the most vocal being those from Gujarat as always) claimed that Medha and party were anti-development and were using emotional blackmail to gain their selfish ends. And meantime they were denying the people of these states water which is their undeniable birth right and thereby upsetting development. Let's analyse: how did the people of Gujarat and Rajasthan live when there was no Narmada water available? Why are not they talking about the birth rights of the tribals and villagers ousted by the dam and who have now become refugees in their own country? Why are they trying to increase the dam height before resettling the oustees? Why do they want to add 35000 more to the list of neglected and doomed lives by increasing the dam height from 110 metres to 121 metres? Where is the fertile soil promised to the oustees? Where is the money? Who are we? Not people, but mere cow dung?

The chief minister of Gujarat is sitting on a counter fast of 51 hours for raising the dam height. Why not fast unto death? Then, may be, you will be forgiven for the darkest days the country ever saw! You have bathed Gujarat in blood, now for what you want the water? For washing the stains away?! Okay, we are not going to deny people water, but not by denying other people their lives. The congress in Gujarat wanted to protest by declaring bandh: they should actually be proud that the weapon their great neta used so successfully against the British is being used after so many years for a noble cause. They should strive that the weapon do not misfire and go waste. But meantime, they were up in arms against the only courageous soul among the page-three celebrities in Delhi who proclaimed so calmly and solidly that Gujarat should get water but oustees should get adequate compensation. Why cant the Gujarat CM build enough canals and waterways to effectively & efficiently use the last drop of water which is available from the Sardar Sarovar Dam at its present height?

And the court had ruled: "When there is doubt and un-equanimity, the prime minister should intervene. His should be the last word". Why is the last word not coming? Is it waiting for the ultimate moment when the struggle remains and the struggler is no more? Shame on you, Mr. Manmohan! Show your backbone now or never! People need life not Uranium, Dr. Prime Minister!

And how true when Ghandhi said that satyagraha is only successful when you are fighting an enemy who has something called CONSCIENCE.............!!!!!

Seeing Off

Today the students of my final degree batch got together for a long, last day on the deserted campus. They were all in a party mood, but below the veil of joy, I knew was a different face. They had to face it anyway, after three long years spent together they were each going on their separate paths. It reminded me of a day eight years back when I had to face the hard truth. But that time I was sure that we will meet again, some day or the other; for, as men, our paths would have to cross some where, some day, for sure! It was different, though, on a different day six years back, on the day of my M.Sc. sent-off. I was not too sure this time. The reason was the presence of girls who offer a far lesser chance of random meetings. Same as now.

Now onwards, each of them has to tread the road ahead alone. The future may have in store good or bad, but you have to bear it alone. The feeling takes time to sink in, but once it starts to grip you, it doesn't leave that easy. One will long for the moments foregone once they are past. Its universal. You may long for things to be re-done, re-told or so on but in the drama called life there is no re-enacting of scenes. It may be very late when we realise. Every body goes through such stages. When one starts taking such moments or periods as small slices of life which reflect the life as a whole, his whole outlook changes. He then finds how he can change his life, and thereby others'!! I HOPE MY CHILDREN LEARNED THEIR LESSONS WELL!

Myself

Relishing each moment at Thattekkad with my children